Sunday, December 28, 2008

Christmas, Iceland


With the Yule Lads still descending from the mountains, Christmas finally arrived - as it always does, on the 25th of December. With the village almost devoid of people Dan, Cat and I were left to our own devices to decide how to celebrate. With my traditional lack of planning I was going to be content with a few coldies and maybe some rice and beans. Cat fortunately had a better idea ... beers AND chicken. One of the most expensive meats in Iceland, it is somewhat unusually considered a 'delicacy' and as such consumed to a lesser extent than either horse, whale and certainly the ubiquitous boiled sheep's head. Cat also wanted to try her hand at some truly Icelandic cooking, which resulted in some odd looking but delicious Laufabrauð - thin deep-fried wheat breads which are traditionally cut with intricate decorative patterns.


Christmas chickens

Icelandic Laufabrauð (Leaf Bread)

Washed down with more than enough 'mini Thors' dinner was not surprisingly a success. Presents of course were exchanged beneath the Christmas Branch, which was left in Dan's capable hands while Soizic was home in France for the holidays. Not one of the most festive Christmas seasons we've ever had (for me no doubt due to the lack of barbeque's and swimming in the sea), but a good one none the less. I hope you all got visited by Santa and managed to soak up the goodness of the Kiwi summer - I am infinitely jealous.

The Christmas Branch

The best thing about it being Christmas is that it means that I made it through the shortest day of the year. On the 21st the sun rose at 11:22am and set at 3:29pm. Because the valley I live in doesn't actually receive sunlight from roughly October to March, it seemed little different to any other day of the Arctic winter. I just consider myself lucky that I'm not still scared of the dark ...

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Santa's coming, Iceland

As always, the most interesting thing about Christmas anywhere is that terrified look children get when mum makes them sit on Santa's knee. Here in Iceland Santa is for pussies. Real children are visited by 13 once terrifying Yuletide Lads on the days leading up to Christmas - and if they have been naughty perhaps the Lad's mother Grýla or their evil pet the Christmas Cat. Most of the stories told about Grýla and her family were to frighten children – her favourite dish was a stew of naughty kids and she had an insatiable appetite. Such was the power of the terrifying creature and her offspring that a public decree was issued in 1746 prohibiting the use of Grýla and the Yuletide Lads to scare children in to being good.

From child snatchers the Yuletide Lads developed into thieving tricksters who descended from the mountains one by one during the thirteen days before Christmas. Formerly, they tried to pilfer their favorite things or play tricks on people (hence their names), but now their main role is to give children small gifts. Every child in Iceland puts their best shoe on their bedroom window sill on December 12th (some try to put their boot, in the hope that they may get more, but so far the Yule Lads haven’t been fooled) and they get a small gift from each lad when he arrives in town. But beware not to be naughty or the lad might just leave a rotten potatoe in your shoe!

On December 12 the Yuletide Lads begin to come to town. The first to arrive is Stekkjastaur (Stiff Legs) who loves to drink the milk from farmers' ewes but his stiff legs make that very difficult. On December 13 Giljagaur (Gully Oaf) arrives. Before the days of milking machines, he would sneak into the cowshed and skim the froth off the pails of milk. The Lad who arrives on December 14 is Stúfur (Shorty), who, as his name implies, is on the small side. He smacks his lips over the leftovers in the cooking pans, especially if they are burnt or gone bad. On December 15, Þvörusleikir (Spoon Licker) comes down from the mountains to steal wooden spoons that have been used for stirring. On December 16, Pottaskefill (Pot Licker) comes visiting. He snatches the unwashed pots from the kitchen and scrapes the insides with his fingers and tongue and leaves them quite clean. Askasleikir (Bowl Licker) arrives on December 17. He hides under beds, and if someone puts a wooden food-bowl in the floor, he grabs it and licks it clean.

The Yule Lads

Hurðaskellir (Door Slammer) comes on December 18. He is an awfully noisy fellow, who is always slamming doors and keeping people awake. The Lad who is expected on December 19 is called Skyrgámur (Curd Glutton), because he loves skyr (milk curd) so much that he sneaks into the pantry and gobbles up all the skyr from the tub there. Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Pilferer) comes on December 20. He loves sausages of all kinds, and steals them whenever he can. On December 21, Gluggagægir (Peeping Tom) arrives. He is not as greedy as some of his brothers, but awfully nosy, peeping through windows and even stealing toys he likes the look of. On December 22 Gáttaþefur (Sniffer) comes calling. He has a big nose, and he loves the smell of cakes being baked for Christmas. He often tries to snatch a cake or two for himself. On 23 December, St. Þorlákur's Day, Ketkrókur (Meat Hook) arrives. He adores all meat. In olden days he would lower a hook down the kitchen chimney and pull up a leg of lamb hanging from a rafter, or a bit of smoked lamb from a pan, as smoked lamb was traditionally cooked on St. Þorlákur's Day. Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar) comes on Christmas Eve, December 24. In olden times, candle light was the brightest light available. Candles were so rare and precious that it was a treat for children to be given a candle at Christmas. Poor Candle Beggar wants one too but he can't make up his mind whether to eat them or watch their lovely light.

Presents are exchanged at 6pm on December 24th. They are not delivered by any of the Yuletide Lads but by friends and family. I think this is done so that someone may be held accountable if something terrible should happen - like not getting any new clothes for example. An old Icelandic folklore states that everyone has to get one new piece of clothing at Christmas. Anyone who does not is in danger of being eaten by Grýla’s pet - a malicious beast called the Christmas Cat.

The dreaded Christmas Cat

Thanks for the underwear Nana - it might just have saved my life ...

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Nuffin' much, Iceland


I've been in the lab sampling Arctic charr eggs this week - leaving home and returning again under the cover of darkness. Things being as they are you don't have much opportunity to 'see' anything. I was lucky enough however on my weekend (when I only had to work a couple of hours) to catch a glimpse of a pair of seals resting on the sea ice.


Seals looking out for polar bears

I am still waiting to see a polar bear mincing around Sauðárkrókur, but I'm sure I'll see one soon enough ...

Sunday, December 7, 2008

3 things, Iceland


This was a good week in Iceland for three reasons. First, I finished my level 1 Icelandic class. It means that I don't have to endure two and a half hours of incomprehensible grammar twice a week. Sadly, it doesn't mean that I can speak Icelandic.


Just like a degree - looks good on paper but is useless in the real world

Icelandic Class of '08, Farskólinn

Second, I got to see some fishes from the sea on Wednesday, including two monstrous Greenland Sharks. This is what Icelanders make Hárkarl (putrefied shark meat) out of. In typical Icelandic fashion, some old geezer pulls up in a family wagon towing a trailer - on to which he loads two of the 4 or 5 tonne beasts from the deep. Looks like there will be no shortage of this quote unquote 'delicacy' at the traditional feast in February.

Hjalp!

Greenland Sharks are used to make Hákarl

Load 'em up lads

Third, I took Friday off work to go snowboarding on Tindastoll - the local ski area. The weather and the snow were flippin' perfect. The hill has an approximately 800m long pommel which pulls you up a decent kind of a slope in about 6-7 minutes. Once at the top you have a number of lines to choose from; varying from groomed snow, 1-2 feet of powder, rock filled canyons or off trail. The best thing though, was that there were only 7 other people there that day. I ran fresh powdery lines for 3 hours, and all for less than the price of a dozen beers.

Friday's sunrise over Sauðárkrókur Harbour

Sometime around midday ...

There are some good runs

Friday was perfect to hit the slopes for some fresh pow pow

Tindastóll at night

Monday, December 1, 2008

Beard Update 3, Iceland


I'm beginning to think this is a bad idea

At least I think I might have Dan convinced that his victory will not be easy. He looks terrified that my beard is more masculine than his.

Dan sporting a second place face